On the entrance to the Lagoa dos Patos, RIO GRANDE was founded in 1737 at the very southern fringe of the Portuguese empire. With the growth of the charque and chilled beef economy, Rio Grande's port took on an increasing importance from the mid-nineteenth century. Rather more spread out than Pelotas, it does not share that city's instant charm. However, colonial and late nineteenth-century buildings are to be found in the area around Rua Floriano Peixoto and Praça Tamandaré (the main square), which is almost next to Largo Dr Pio and the much renovated eighteenth-century Catedral . On Rua General Osório, by the corner of Rua General Neto, is the Biblioteca Rio-grandense (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 2-6pm, Sat 8am-noon), dating from 1846, the oldest and still the most important library in the state. The library is especially significant for its nineteenth-century collection featuring many rare volumes. A number of museums are also worth a look. The Museu Oceanográfico at Rua Reito Perdigão 10 (daily 9-11am & 2-5pm) is perhaps the most important of its type in Latin America, featuring a huge collection of fossils and preserved sea creatures. Containing a photographic archive and objects relating to the city of Rio Grande, the Museu Histórico da Cidade (Mon-Fri 9-11.30am & 2-5pm) is located in the old customs house ( alfândega), a Neoclassical building built in 1879 on Rua Riachuelo.
At the waterfront , just moments' walk from the cathedral, there's always a lively mixture of ocean-going ships, fishing vessels and smaller boats. From here boats cross the mouth of the Lago dos Patos to the small village of São José do Norte , one of the oldest settlements in the state, with a simple church, Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes , built in 1795.
As far as beaches are concerned, though, you'll need to go to Cassino , a resort facing the Atlantic that's very popular with Uruguayans, 25km south of Rio Grande and served by buses from Praça Tamandaré. Like most of the rest of the Litoral Gaúcho, the beaches here are long, low and straight and only merit a visit if you have time between buses. |
