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Mark Twain visited Geneva so often towards the end of the 19th century that American literary magazines began to fear he had taken up residence. The writer was certainly intrigued by the Old Town's labyrinth of narrow, angular streets, finding the Reformist-named Rue d'Enfer, and Rue du Purgatoire (Hell and Purgatory streets) particularly curious.

Literary diversions aside, 21st century Geneva is still a surprising city. Its history of religious and ethnic tolerance and the establishment of international organisations have boosted the resident foreign population to about 40 percent. The result of such cultural diversity is largely positive and manifests itself everywhere from restaurant kitchens to art galleries.

Located at the extreme south-western corner of Switzerland, Geneva is surrounded by French territory. Its location, on the banks of Lake Léman between the Alps and the Jura mountains, provides a dramatic landscape and allows easy access to ski runs, vineyards, spas, and historic towns. Geneva is compact and easily explored on foot. It is also exceptionally green, with a great number of parks and walkways in and around the city centre.

Staying in the city is a demystifying experience. Geneva's image as a sleepy, fondue-clogged destination for Heidi-loving diplomats has long been put to rest. The pulse here may be harder to detect than in the larger European cities, but once found, Geneva can satisfy most travellers' needs.
Getting Around Geneva
As it is likely to be a deeply frustrating experience attempting to go sightseeing by car, the best way to explore Geneva is on foot. The tourist office publishes several good walking tours. The other option is by bus or tram. An hour's journey (unlimited transfers) is CHF 2.20 and recommended routes include the No. 1 bus (for a tour of the inner city) or the No. 12, which passes the Place Neuve, Plainpalais and Carouge.

Geneva Lake Leman
The geographic feature dominating the city is, of course, Lake Léman. This immense body of fresh water is the largest and bluest of all the lakes in Switzerland. Locals may be tolerant if you refer to it as Lake Geneva', but if you are planning a day trip to Lausanne or Evian, remember that Geneva is not the only city bordering the lake! The arrival of warm weather in the city heralds the opening of lakeside terraces and beaches, the most well known being the Bains de Pâquis which is well set up for swimmers and café habitués. Viewing the cityscape by boat is highly recommended as stunning views of the Jet d'Eau and the Savoy mountains are to be beheld

It is fair to assume that Tolstoy did not journey by pedal boat, or catamaran, both of which can be rented during summer months. If captaining your own craft does not appeal, there are many cruise options available.

Geneva City Center
It is difficult to isolate one point as being the city centre. Historically, the Place du Bourg-de-Four in the Old Town would have been the main focus. From a practical point of view it is tempting to bestow this honour on the building on the Pont-de-la-Machine, which traverses the Rhône, between the left and right banks of the lake. Housed here is a branch of Geneva's tourist information centre. Free city maps and brochures can be picked up here or in the main office, located in the Central Post Office on the Rue du Mont Blanc.

Geneva Rive Gauche
For glamour, the Rue du Rhône on the left bank cannot be missed. Here, the well-frocked, Vuitton-toting bourgeoisie shop for minks, tiaras and watches so stuffed with diamonds that looking at the time requires Gucci shades and a bodyguard. All is not glistering with gold, however. The Paris-based Tati Department store (new wedding dresses for CHF 99!) is a low-budget mouche in the high-fashion ointment.

The tramway-lined shopping-area a block from the Rue du Rhône and just below the old city is pretty much Geneva's High Street'. Confusingly, this thoroughfare changes names every few hundred metres, from the Rue de la Confédération, near Bel-Air, to the Rue de Rive, which marks a border with the Eaux-Vives. Large department stores such as Globus and EPA are situated here, along with fashion chains such as Hennes & Mauritz. Fast-food outlets and street-entertainment are also plentiful here.

Geneva Rive Droite
From Cornavin towards Bel-Air, the Rive Droite has a high concentration of shops, hotels and restaurants. Always teeming with locals and tourists, the Placette is a popular supermarket and department store run by the Manor group. Placette's bakery is excellent and the shop also has a café on the top floor in addition to self-service restaurants at street level.

Geneva Old Town - Vieille Ville de Geneve
A meeting place since Roman times, the Bourg-de-Four is at the heart of the Old Town. The square, in reality more like a multi-levelled spiral, is dominated by café terraces (such as La Clémence) next to the 18th century fountain, book and antique shops and a very low-key police station.

Among the notable sights in the area is the Cathédrale St-Pierre. More important for its role in history (Calvin preached here) than its aesthetic beauty, the Cathedral comprises a miscellany of pieces tacked on through the centuries. Archaeologists have discovered the ruins of a Roman temple (350AD) near the foundations of the Cathedral and the dig site is open to the public. For a superb view of the city, the North tower can be climbed for a small charge (CHF 3).

Maison Tavel, at 6, Rue Puits-de-St-Pierre, is the oldest house in Geneva. Now a city-owned museum, the multi-storeyed house exhibits objects from Geneva's past, with rooms decorated in period style. Another museum in this area, the Musée Barbier-Müller, holds a stunning collection of non-European artwork. Although it might be impossible to park a car in the old city, there is no problem finding a seat at the Promenade de la Treille. The 126m long wooden bench located there is the longest in the world. In addition, chestnut trees blossoming in this delightful square traditionally signal the start of spring.

Geneva Les Paquis
Combining exotic and erotic delights, the Pâquis quarter is the closest Geneva has to a bohemian neighbourhood. Behind the glittering lakeside façades of the city's most resplendent right bank hotels, less alluring enterprises offer tawdry cabarets and sex products. The area was once used for grazing cows, but is now inhabited by an increasing number of boutiques selling original art, clothes and jewellery. Food-wise, the range of cafés and restaurants in the Pâquis cannot be surpassed in the city. Ethnic restaurant highlights include Jeck's Place (Singaporean/Malaysian), Le Comptoir (Japanese/international) and Amir Beyrouth (Lebanese).

Geneva Les Eaux Vives
Across the lake from the pulsating Pâquis, the Eaux-Vives is a bubbly area that lives up to the English translation of its name. Italian restaurants (Da Paolo and Vesuvio come recommended) are abundant here. Small boutiques are dotted along the Rue des Eaux-Vives and side streets leading to the lake. An independent cinema, Les Scala, shows films in original versions on its three screens. The magnificent Parc des Eaux-Vives and La Grange comprises a huge expanse of green, the latter also features Roman ruins and an extensive rose-garden.
© 2003 by wcities.com Limited

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